Posts Tagged ‘gunma’

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Enkai (宴会)

July 7, 2008

Enkai are a vital part of Japanese culture. The definition of “enkai” is merely “party; banquet” but it is also what greases the wheels of social communication in Japanese culture. The enkai is usually a work party celebrating something such as the start of the new fiscal year or transfer of the office workers.

At these parties there is usually a flat fee which covers the cost of food and drinks, often all you can drink for about 2 hours. Most people drink alcohol, usually beer or 日本酒 (nihonshu, what we Americans call “sake”), sometimes large amounts of it, though others stick with oolong tea or cola.

Enkai ease the formal work environment found in most Japanese offices. It is an opportunity to get to know your co-workers; sometimes the only opportunity to get to know them in a social situation. There is a saying that what happens at an enkai stays at an enkai. Some enkai are known to get a little wild.

The approximate equivalent in the States is the Christmas Party. Both usually involve large amounts of alcohol, but one does not bring a date to the enkai; it is exclusive to the members of the company.

After the main enkai, there is often what is called the “nijikai” (二次会), which means “second party”. After a big enkai many people go to the second party. At smaller enkai few people go, perhaps only the men. In my experience, the second party is usually karaoke or going to a snack bar (スナックバー) so called because they serve snacks with the drinks, but which also involve ladies pouring the drinks for you and chatting with you, and the seating charge is higher than usual. The snack bars usually also have karaoke, though not the karaoke box. The “sanjikai” (三次会) or third party is often only the men, and I couldn’t tell you what they do because I have never been to one. I believe the tamer ones involve eating ramen, and the wilder ones involve going to places where you wouldn’t take children.

As an English speaker at an enkai you will often be surprised. It is a good chance to practice your Japanese, but every now and again, you will be talking with someone and they will suddenly come out with some really excellent English.

At my last enkai, I was talking with one of my coworkers and he suddenly asked me, “So, what do you think about the current presidential candidates? Who do you like better, Clinton or Obama?” I was floored, because I didn’t even know he spoke English at all! We chatted about politics for bit, when he glanced over and saw that an English teacher was sitting next to us. At that point, he became very embarrassed, clammed up and reverted back to Japanese.

Whenever possible, go to your work parties. The positive interactions you have an enkai will spill over into your work life and it’s a great oppotunity to bring up things that you otherwise don’t have time to discuss during the work day.

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Daikou (代行サービス)

June 27, 2008

In Japan, drinking is very popular. It is an essential part of most evening events, and even work parties (enkai 宴会). However, there is a zero tolerance policy for drinking and driving. If you drive after even 1 drink you could find yourself with a ticket for thousands of dollars, possibly jail time, and you will possibly lose your job (especially if you are a government employee). So, what can you do?

There are several options. One is to take the train, but Japanese trains stop running about 12:00 AM, sometimes earlier, so this is often not a viable option unless you “party” all night and take the first train home in the morning (at about 5:00 AM). The other option is to take a taxi, but it costs a lot and you need to take the taxi both there and back (or take the train there and taxi back).

If you want to drive, but also want to drink, there is a great service avaible in Japan called daikou, or daikou service (代行サービス). “Daikou” means “(n,vs) acting as agent”, and this service is essentially a proxy service where a company does something for you. In this case, they come in a small daikou taxi. One person gets out and takes your car keys. They then drive you home in your own car! The daikou taxi follows. When you get home, you pay them about the same as a taxi fare and they get back into the daikou taxi and drive away. With a service like that, there is little reason for anyone to need to drive after drinking in Japan.

The other morning we were having a rare lay-in on the weekend, when at about 7 or 8 AM we heard loud honking outside. We drifted back to sleep, but it reminded me of something that happened shortly before we moved out of our last apartment.

In was the middle of the night. I don’t remember if it was a weekend or a weekday, but we were aroused from sound sleep by a loud and persistent honking. We shut our eyes, pulled the covers over our heads, and hoped it would stop. But it didn’t.

When my husband finally had enough, he went outside to find out what was going on. I was worried about some kind of fight; who knew what kind of person honks their horn that loudly at 3:00 AM? I needn’t have worried. Our neighbor in the apartment block across the street had been out drinking. He had ordered daikou to take him home, but rather than park his car for him, they had stopped it at the end of the long, difficult to navigate parking lot, returned his keys and left.

In his extremely drunken state, he was trying to park his car, and couldn’t. He was a bit disoriented and thought that someone had parked in his space, which they hadn’t. He was honking to get the attention of the person who he thought had parked in his space. This being Japan, no one went out to see what was going on while he honked and honked for 30 minutes.

My husband went and talked with him and convinced the guy to let him park his car. My husband parked the guy’s car, the guy thanked him profusely and stumbled off to bed. I have no doubt that the next day he felt incredibly ashamed and embarrassed for disrupting so many people (an even worse thing to do when in Japan as compared to the States). We then went back to sleep.

But the main question I have is: why didn’t the daikou driver park his car for him as they usually do?

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Saying Goodbye to Japan…

June 23, 2008

After three years I am finally leaving Japan. As the plane tickets are finalized (and payed for), and as we pack up our belongings; ruthlessly throwing out the things which we don’t need, the realization that we are actually leaving hits me. I have had a great time living in Japan and I have learned so much. This tangent I have spun off on from my original goal of working in theater has taught me a lot, and now is the time to go back to the States and use these skills I have acquired and find my place.

Inspired by my friend’s post, this is a reflection on my time in Japan.

Things I accomplished:

  • Learned some Japanese (and learned how to learn a language).
  • Learned that I love teaching high school students and became a good teacher.
  • Met my husband and got married (and struggled through a yearlong wait for his spouse visa to be issued. At last!)
  • Learned about a different culture and how to exist in it (when in Rome…)
  • Lived on my own for the first time in a rural area and learned how to be fully self-suffient.
  • Made a few Japanese friends.
  • Became a better cook.
  • Helped other Assistant Language Teachers with their problems and hopefully helped them become better teachers.

Things I regret:

  • Not learning more Japanese.
  • Not making more Japanese friends.
  • Not going to Okinawa and Hokkaido.
  • Not seeing Takarazuka (there are still two months left…)
  • Not starting a blog about my experiences sooner.

Things I will miss about Japan:

  • The food (soba, udon, ramen, the special taste of canned coffee, hire katsu ヒレカツ, izakaya 居酒屋 food, all you can drink specials, salad udon, agedashi tofu 揚げ出し豆腐, festival yakisoba 焼きそば, and much more.)
  • Friends I’ve made.
  • Karaoke boxes!
  • Purikura (print club!)
  • Nama gurepufurutsu sawa 生グレープフルーツサワー (shochu (焼酎) - Japanese vodka – soda, and a raw grapefruit that you juice yourself and add to the glass).
  • Vending machines everywhere; from drinks, to toys, to oden (おでん)
  • Summer festivals (祭) and wearing a yukata (浴衣) to them.
  • Cherry blossom viewing parties (hanami 花見) where we sit outside all day and eat and drink.
  • Great customer service and no tipping.
  • Good trains and public transportation.
  • Being an expat at time when when the reputation of the USA is not very good.
  • Automatic flushing toilets and automatic faucets that actually work properly.
  • How safe Tokyo feels compared with big cities in the States.
  • Hot springs (onsen 温泉)!
  • Watching gakkou e ikkou (学校へ行こう!) on Tuesday nights.

Thing I will be glad to leave behind:

  • Having to bike everywhere.
  • Being stared at just for looking foreign.
  • Expensive fruits and vegetables.
  • Not being able to find many cooking ingredients for recipes I want to try.
  • Unequal gender roles.
  • Simple things being difficult to do because my Japanese isn’t good enough, or there is excessive beauracracy.
  • The translation/repeat method of English teaching.
  • The idea that the group is always more important than the individual.
  • Lack of central heating, kerosene heaters, small refrigerators, microwave/oven combination, Japanese stoves.
  • Big, stripy mosquitos.

Things I miss about home:

  • My family and friends.
  • Cheap fruit and vegetables.
  • Having a car.
  • That being an individual is valued and success is not measured by seniority but by ability.
  • Making theater.
  • Not living in a tiny apartment.
  • Being able to dress uniquely without worrying that I am not dressed appropriately for teacher (a highly regarded job in Japan).
  • ATMs are open 24 hours and you can use a credit card or cash card almost anywhere.
  • Cultural diversity.

Things I am worried about dealing with when I get home:

  • Culture shock.
  • Finding a job in the arts.
  • Getting health insurance.
  • Moving back to my hometown where I haven’t lived for 10 years.
  • Evaluating my experience in Japan and creating a new 5 year plan.
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Gunmania 2008: Spring Issue (vol 2)

June 17, 2008

The magazine I write for has just come out with it’s spring issue, so check it out. This magazine is a quarterly publication about Gunma Prefecture (群馬県), where I currently live.

In this issue:
-Running (And Cycling) For A Cause
by Erin Kessler

-Great Japan Beer Festival
by Bahia Simons-Morton

-Gunma Public: Teacher Dorama
by Joyce Wong

-Koyasan: The Best Of Old Japan In A Day’s Leisurely Walk
by Symerna Blake

-Not Done Yet
by Chris Hensleigh

-The Princess Of Kiryu
by Bahia Simons-Morton

Download the PDF here: http://www.gunmajet.net/node/1171

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Photo Post #1

March 12, 2008

Headphone Punk

Headphone Punk, Shibuya 2007

Geisha Doll

Geisha Doll, taken at Ikaho Toy and Doll Museum, 2007

Red Alligator

Red Alligator, Gunma, taken in a home goods store in Takasaki Aeon Mall, 2008

©2008 Bahia Simons-Morton

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Kiryu Antiques Fair

March 5, 2008

We walked up the street toward the temple, chaos all around us. One side of the street, old women were selling rolls of fabric, old clothes, and huge old-women panties.

Keys on Blue

On the other side of the street, men sold artifacts of forgotten times: hilt guards from samurai swords, old buddhas, sumo game lists handwritten in exquisite and tiny writing, old books full of kanji calligraphy, boxes of magazines and photos.

Kettles on Red

As we moved up the street, we noticed a few of the off-shooting roads contained their own festivals, some limited only to local delicacies.

Old Book

Read the rest of this entry ?

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Going Back

February 29, 2008

I went back to Numajo.  Numajo was the all girls’ high school I taught at my first two years in Japan.  Still working in the same prefecture, I took a job last summer as an advisor for language teachers and a teacher for special needs students.  I didn’t realize how sad I would be when the time came to leave the girls’ high school, but when the time came I held back tears.  Nine months later I had the chance to back.  The words, “I went back to Numajo,” sum up something life changing for me.  I am not sure how I can explain what it meant to me or the depth of exhausting emotions I experienced going back to the school; all the memories it brought up and feelings of nostalgia, confidence, inadequacy, hope, frustration.  When I returned home the other day, on the train I used to take so many times, I felt so tired.  My mind was in a way numb, but numb because it was so overloaded with thoughts and emotions.  My time at that school, learning to be a teacher, learning to be a mentor, stumbling through Japanese, and experiencing connections with Japanese people and experiencing a new culture, was an instrumental time in my life.  At times, I feel that I went into Numajo as a teenager (though I was in my 20s) and came out an adult.

Why?  What was it that changed so much about myself?  It was a hundred little things all mixed into one that changed me.  It was living on my own for the first time.  It was meeting my husband to be.  It was teaching.  Most of all, it was the school itself and my experiences there.  The first few times I walked into a classroom I was terrified.  There I was, standing in front of 30 or so students all looking expectantly at me and waiting for me to teach them something.  I felt stage fright. I felt inadequate and unprepared.  I couldn’t speak Japanese. I was nervous.  The previous ALT (Assistant Language Teacher) left me with very little.  No lesson plans besides a textbook and a short note about each class.  No guidance about what makes a good teacher or how to behave in the classroom.  Those were things I had to learn on my own and things I had to prepare myself for by drawing on my past experiences and the new ones I faced everyday in Japan.

So I started, carefully, to follow the textbooks; to choose which pages were most useful and relevant for the lessons.  I started to get to know the teachers; I made overtures of friendship, though a bit hesitantly, through the communication barriers that existed.  At first these simple things seemed to be enough. I gained confidence in front of the class and I tested out the different roles I could have in this new job.  After a short time, it became clear to me that the textbooks were not interesting; not for me, and not for the students.  So I began to suggest new and different activities; ones that were based on the book, but added an element or two of my interests or my students’ interests.  As I got to know the teachers, we were able to work together to develop material for our classes; we could offer suggestions and criticisms constructively.

My tactics seemed to work and my role at the school evolved.  For classes where we had previously merely followed the textbook we added new, bold activities to increase the students’ interest.  For one class, I worked closely with the JTE (Japanese Teacher of English) who I taught with and together we developed our own, new and interesting, curriculum for the class.  Her enthusiasm for teaching, and for English, was infectious, and as we became friends our friendly banter showed the students English in a new light.  I truly believe the lessons we developed unleashed more of the students potential than the previous uninspired textbook topics, such as “Are real pets better than virtual pets?” and other things which the students had little interest in, and which had even less application to their real lives.  We incorporated my strengths as a university theater major and created a skit based curriculum which boosted the students’ interest in English.  Gradually, my class-load increased, for which I was grateful.
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As supervisor for the English Club I honed my skills at guidance and explored the possibilities of my role.  My first day at the club, the room was crowded and I had no idea what I was doing.  I later learned that most of those students were not actually club members, but had come just to see what the new ALT was like.  The English Club actually consisted of a handful of students, or at least only a handful regularly came.  In spite of the small size, I tried to build our relationships and do interesting things.  It may not come as a surprise that English Club is not really a “cool” club to be in. It is the club that students join when they don’t want to commit to a serious club like basketball or chorus.  They join so that they can at least put on their college applications that they were in a club, never mind their level of participation (or lack thereof).

But, as the years progressed, we gained momentum and members.  The first time I participated in the school festival to entice new students into joining clubs, I was thrust onto the stage with little preparation to introduce the club in English, along with the club president introducing the club in Japanese, with of course the Beatles playing softly in the background, while most of the other clubs did choreographed dance routines, or shot arrows at balloons or soccer balls into goals.  Surprisingly, we managed to gain a few new members that year.  The next time the school festival for clubs came around, I was ready.  I filmed the clubs activities and made a video.  The club leader and I introduced the club in English and Japanese, while Gwen Stefani’s ‘Harajuku Girls’ played in the background, and the video played upstage.  It was a great success!  That year we gained many members, but not only that, they were dedicated to the club.  That year, English Club evolved a lot and I got to know the students exceptionally well which allowed my relationships with them to take on deeper dimensions as I tested the role of mentor; someone more than a teacher, but not quite a friend.

My second year at the school was, in whole, completely different from my first year there.  The atmosphere was different; I had clarified my roles, learned how to be a better teacher, and bonded with the students.  I learned how to prepare easy to use lesson plans, and to find the best opportunities to meet with the other teachers.  The atmosphere with the teachers was more friendly and open, and feeling with the students was as well.  I ate lunch a few times a week with several dedicated students who I have kept in touch with after they graduated.  I think I fully realized the benefit of my role as part-teacher, sometimes almost-peer, when one student asked me about a crude lyric from a Franz Ferdinand song.  I am sure that she did not feel comfortable asking a Japanese teacher the same question, as I believe she suspected the meaning might be a bit different from their usual vocabulary words, but she felt comfortable asking me, and I was greatly touched.

I helped students prepare for speech contests, and spoken English tests; spending hours after school to ensure that they felt prepared.  I had students come to me afterward and thank me profusely because they had passed the oral exam, or had gone far in the speech contest finals.  I prepared students for their exchange programs in the U.S. which for many of the students profoundly changed their relationships with learning English.  I worked hard and did the best I could.

I learned so much in those two years; though not every day was full of successes.  There were days I was frustrated with my language studies, or stressed in the rush to decide the final grades. When I left the school I felt a great sense of achievement and an overwhelming sense of sadness.  One student threw herself crying into my arms, and I could barely hold back.  The students gave me letters of affection, thanking me for everything, and leaving their cell phone email addresses for me to keep in touch.  The English Club bought me a parting gift, a “Nightmare Before Christmas” wall clock, which, though I have no place to hang it, I truly treasure.

Every morning as I drink my coffee out of the Mickey and Minnie Mouse mug that English Club students gave me for my birthday, I think about the school, and remember.  These are the reasons why going back felt so big.  The emotional hangover I had on that train going home was intense, and in some ways is still lingering.

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Gunmania Issue 2008 (Vol. 1 – Winter)

February 27, 2008

Just out is the newest issue of Gunmania, our prefecture’s online magazine of which I used to be the editor. While I am currently not the editor, I have contributed a few articles to this season’s issue. This issue looks pretty good so please check it out.

If you’re interested, check out the back issues edited by me:

I also contributed a few articles to the issues before I became editor.

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America is Not a Country

February 25, 2008

Sitting on the express train returning to Gunma from Tokyo, we were a bit tired from our busy weekend, yet optimistic because the next day, Monday, happened to be a holiday. We fidgeted in our seats, adjusting them for a comfortable trip; though not quite as comfortable as the shinkansen, riding the express train is nonetheless usually a pleasurable experience. With more room than an airplane seat and a vending machine in the vestible between the cars, the trip between our rural Gunma and big city Tokyo is usually fairly painless.

Still, on this occasion, we found ourselves in the middle of a rather active car, despite it being 8:00 pm on a Sunday. Two rows up and across the aisle, a chattering group for four took their seats. The men were slightly inebriated and a bit loud, the women rather passive and patient, and all fairly old. As the louder of the two men cracked open his can of pre-mixed whiskey and water, his voice rose and he started into a loud rant.

The first subject was America. Specifically, it was that “America is not a country”. I am not exactly sure what he meant, as my Japanese is not great, but my husband picked up much of what he was saying and commented to me every time he changed subjects. America is not a country. Why exactly? I’m not sure. It could be because it is made up of too many large states, or because it is too big. He next started in on the “whaling problem,” which may have contributed to his anti-America feelings. His next topic was the UK, followed by Wales and several other countries. We buried our faces in magazines and tried to read, but he was speaking so loud that it was difficult to concentrate.

Every few minutes one of the other three would interject something, however, he seemed not to notice. By the time he was on his second can of whiskey and water, his wife seemed the be biting back exasperation. Eventually, his ranting grew quieter and he fell asleep. His companions, too, dozed off. The car was finally quiet. Solitude, at last. The only thing that inturrupted the peace from then on, was the exasperated wife, he feelings lingering even in rest, as she began talking in her sleep. “Shut up, you noisy idiot!” and more along the same lines, but he was out cold and never stirred.

When the train arrived at their stop she roused him from his slumber. As he fell all over the place, forward onto her and finally backwards into his seat, she attempted to get him to put on his coat. She would place it over his shoulders, and he would then throw it off, moaning like a petulent child, “It’s hot.” She finally bundled him up and assisted him to the vestibule between the cars and off the train.